Baduzzi offers an Italian fix with a stop-off in New York for styling and menu tips. It s a labour of love for owner Michael Dearth, who also owns The Grove.

Baduzzi means meatballs and here they are taken seriously. Well-seasoned crayfish and savoy cabbage meatballs served with a gutsy carrot sauce are very good, as are the grilled Wagyu versions with onion gravy and salsa verde.

Other stars included buttered maltagliati with duck and porcini ragu and quality wood-fired meats. Knowledgeable staff guide you through a wine list rich with led-known Italian imports. In brief: An Italian job delivered with pizzazz and integrity.